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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.